
Jane told me a story that I just have to pass on. It's such an insightful glimpse into a little piece of the culture in Senegal, of the-rules-by-which-the-game-of-life-is-played. If you've come here with a church team, you've heard us say it a lot during orientation. Still, sometimes we, too, need reminded that "greeting is important."
So Jane stopped on the way home from working with the talibe in Ouakam yesterday to get some groceries. She had enough stuff that the bag boy helped by carrying a box for her as she searched for a taxi out front. We're without a car for now and so we're using taxis to get pretty much anywhere. Well, I've been catching car rapides for short hops, but taxis are generally our life at the moment.
Anyway, Jane came out and flagged down a taxi. She bargained fairly hard and got a good price, using her Wolof and her hard-earned toughness. As she began putting her stuff in the car, an African fellow came up and asked the taxi driver if he had change. "Excuse me, do you have change for a 5 thousand," he said in French. Or something close to that. The taxi man replied in French that no, he didn't have change and the man left disappointed.
The French-speaking African was not Senegalese. They have a word for such folks in Wolof that is a bit pejorative, even a bit stronger than "
toubab" the word for us Western people of pallor. But the African fellow was not brusque. He was not demanding or insistent. He just needed change.
But he made a fatal error in his interaction.
As soon as he got out of earshot, the taxi man said to the bag boy( in Wolof, of course), "Can you believe that? He didn't even greet me! Where does he come off..."
The height of rudeness, like never saying please or thank you in the US, is to neglect to greet someone: shaking their hand and wishing them peace (Asalaamalekoum) and asking how they're doing (Nan nga def?). It's not about skin color. It's not about ethnicity. If you don't greet at the beginning of a conversation, you've clearly communicated that the human you're talking to isn't really a person in your universe. They are not really worth the time of day. They are just a source of getting something you want.
But if you do greet, like Jane had done without thinking, you can bargain like it's a contact sport and it will be understood to be done with respect between two people who honor each other.